How to prepare for a lead inspection (and pass the first time)

Nov 4
2026

Most failed visual inspections come down to deteriorated paint that was visible in advance. Walk the unit a week before the visit with this checklist, fix what you find, and the inspection becomes a formality.

Cracked and peeling paint on an old wooden window sash and sill — The single most common reason a unit fails: the window sash and sill, where paint gets ground down by use.

The 10-point checklist

⬇ Download PDF checklist

1. Walk every room with fresh eyes. Look at paint the way the inspector will: windows, doors, trim, baseboards, radiators, stair rails, closet interiors.

2. Fix peeling, chipping, cracking paint. Scrape loose paint wet (mist first), skim, prime, repaint. This single item prevents most failures.

3. Open and close every window. Sashes are friction surfaces. Binding, grinding sashes with flaking paint fail; smooth, painted-and-intact ones pass.

4. Check window wells and troughs. Clean out paint chips and debris. A vacuum and a damp wipe is usually enough.

5. Look at door edges and jambs. Impact surfaces: chipped latch-side edges are a classic finding. Sand, prime, touch up.

6. Walk the common areas. Hallways, stairwells, entries in multi-family buildings count. Stair rails and balusters get special attention.

7. Clear access to every room. The inspector needs to reach windows and walls. Move furniture that blocks them; unlock every room, closet, and basement door the tenant space includes.

8. Coordinate with your tenant. Set the time window, tell them nothing invasive happens, and arrange entry. A no-entry visit is wasted money, and in Hoboken it counts as a failed inspection.

9. Gather your paperwork. Prior certificates, notice of violation if you have one, and (Hoboken) the Chapter 125 application filed at least 24 hours ahead.

10. Do not paint over problems the day before. Fresh paint over loose paint fails; the surface has to be stabilized properly. If you find major deterioration, say so when booking; it may be smarter to fix first and book after.

Short answers

Can I just paint over lead paint before the inspection?

Over intact paint, yes; over peeling or chipping paint, no, because a New Jersey lead-safe visual inspection looks for deteriorated paint, and new paint on a failing surface still fails. Lead under sound paint does not fail the inspection: "lead safe" means no outstanding lead-based paint hazards, not lead-free (N.J.A.C. 5:28A-1.2). Stabilize first: wet-scrape, prime, repaint. Scraping more than 6 square feet per room inside, or any dry power sanding, open-flame or high-heat stripping, brings in the EPA RRP rule (40 CFR 745.83).

How do I pass a lead-safe visual inspection in NJ?

Make sure no painted surface shows deteriorated paint or visible dust, debris, or residue, especially walls, windows, trim, and surfaces that rub or take impacts. That is what the visual assessment checks, following HUD guidelines (N.J.A.C. 5:28A-2.3(a)1). Fix problems a week ahead, clean up chips and dust, and unlock every room. In a two- or three-unit building the common areas are inspected too (P.L.2021, c.182, as amended by P.L.2024, c.74, § 1 b.(1)).

Preparation questions

Do I need to hire a certified painter?

Not for basic paint stabilization in most cases. If the work disturbs more than 6 square feet of interior painted surface in a pre-1978 building, an RRP-certified firm and renovator are required (you, if you get certified, or a hired firm) (40 CFR Part 745).

What about furniture and clutter?

Only access matters. A New Jersey lead-safe visual inspection covers friction and impact surfaces, so the inspector needs to reach window sashes and wells, doors, trim and stair rails. Ordinary furnishing is fine; move only what blocks those surfaces.

Checklist done?

Book the inspection while the paint is fresh. 48-hour scheduling.

☎ Call (551) 373-3311